Nothing is more welcome, during Vermont’s cold winter months, than a comforting bowl of soup. This potage (thick vegetable soup), featuring hearty winter vegetables, is the epitome of simplicity. The style is typical in French home kitchens. Known as Potage Crécy, this version highlights carrots. It takes its name from Crécy-en-Ponthieu (a commune in northern France), which is renowned for its carrots.
Although carrots are the primary vegetable in this version, you can use the recipe as a template to make a variety of other vegetable soups: substitute broccoli, cauliflower, or butternut squash for the carrots.
The basic method is first to soften the leeks and onion in a little butter. Then simmer the potatoes (which thicken the soup) and additional vegetables in salted water until tender. After puréeing the soup, enrich it with a little cream. Finally, brighten the flavor with a squeeze of lemon juice.
The Humble Leek
The humble leek is really the star of this recipe. When softened in a little butter, leeks lend a rich, full flavor to the soup.
Leeks tend to harbor grit between the layers, so it is important to wash them carefully. Trim the fuzzy root end and green stems (reserve the stems for a vegetable or other broth). Use only the white and pale green portions. With a sharp knife, make several incisions in the leek’s pale green end to open it up like a fan. Soak the leek in a large bowl of water for several minutes, then swish to dislodge the dirt. Repeat this process until the water runs clear and no trace of grit remains between the layers.
I actually prefer to use salted water rather than commercial broth because the “natural” flavors in commercial broth overpower the delicate flavors of the vegetables. Be sure to use coarse kosher salt as specified in the recipe, because using the same volume of fine salt will be much too salty.
The rich taste of this soup belies its simple ingredients and ease of preparation. Simmer up a pot of potage and enjoy the warmth on a cold winter day!
Ingredients
1 tablespoon butter
1 cup sliced leeks (white and pale green parts only, well cleaned)
1 cup chopped onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup diced peeled potato, preferably Russet
3 3/4 cups water
1 ½ teaspoons coarse kosher salt
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh thyme leaves or 1 teaspoon dried
1 bay leaf
2 1/2 cups sliced peeled carrots (about 5 medium carrots)
1/3 cup light or heavy cream
Lemon juice to taste
Freshly ground pepper to taste
Garnishes, your choice of: croutons (see Tip); snipped carrot tops (only if they are very fresh); fresh thyme leaves; carrot rosettes; chopped parsley; snipped chives; microgreens; a swirl of yogurt or sour cream.
Preparation
1. Heat butter in a 4 to-6-quart Dutch oven or soup pot over medium heat. Add leek and onion; cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not colored, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Add potatoand cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Add water, salt, thyme, and bay leaf; bring to a simmer. Cook, covered, for 10 minutes.
2. Add carrots; return to a simmer and cook, covered, over medium heat until the potatoes and carrots are very tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Discard the bay leaf.
3. Purée the soup with an immersion blender, blender, or food processor, or pass it through a food mill (see Pointers for Pureeing Soups). Take care when blending hot liquids. Do not over-process because the potatoes can become gluey. If you prefer a very smooth purée, pass the soup through a fine sieve. Stir in cream. Heat through. Adjust seasonings with lemon juice and pepper.
The soup will keep covered in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reheat, adding a little additional water to achieve desired consistency, if necessary.
Yield: 6 (1-cup) servings.
Per serving (without garnishes): Calories: 100. Saturated fat: 2.5 grams. Sodium: 530 milligrams. Fiber: 3 grams.
Tip: To make croutons, preheat oven to 325°F. Toss 4 cups cubed country bread with 2 tablespoons olive oil, vegetable oil, or melted butter in a medium bowl. Spread in a single layer in baking pan or on a baking sheet and bake, stirring once or twice, until crisp but not colored, 20 to 30 minutes. Let cool. Makes 4 cups. Croutons will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for several days.
Pointers for Puréeing Soups
There are a number of different tools you can use to purée soups. Each one has advantages and disadvantages.
Immersion blender: A soup maker’s best friend! Also known as a stick blender or hand blender, this compact tool is exceptionally convenient because you can purée an entire batch of soup right in the pot, making cleanup much easier. Be sure to use deep pot. For best results, tilt the pot and move the immersion blender around the soup.
Blender: Very effective for making silky smooth purées. You need to have a mixture of liquids and solids. Take care when blending hot mixtures. Never fill the blender more than half full; work in batches if necessary. Remove the center cap from the lid and place lid on blender. Cover with a folded kitchen towel. Holding lid securely in place, start a low speed, then gradually increase blender speed.
Food processor: To purée a soup in a food processor, first drain off the liquid and reserve it. Purée only the solids in the food processor.Food mill: This old-fashioned device is easy to use and does a fine job. It is especially useful for puréeing soups that contain potatoes because a blender or food processor might overwork the potatoes and make them turn gluey.
—Patsy Jamieson
Photos courtesy Patsy Jamieson.
Did you make this recipe? Would you like to share your experience with it?
If so, you can write to Patsy at info@aflcr.org.