Although the name suggests a sturdy bread, pain de Gênes is actually a cake—a tender cake with a rich almond flavor. Gênes refers to Genoa, and while this implies that the origin of the cake is Italian, it is really a French creation.
Pain de Gênes was probably created in the 1840s by the Parisian pastry chef Fauvel, to honor the siege of Genoa, which took place in 1800. Genoa was then a client of Napoleonic France; Austria, in its war against Napoleon, attacked and besieged it. French troops resisted. During the siege, the Genoese faced starvation and many perished—but some were able to survive on almonds, which were plentiful in the region. After two long months the Austrians captured Genoa, but by holding off the attackers for so long and diverting their firepower, the French troops allowed Napoleon to defeat Austria at Marengo.
Some classic recipes for pain de Gênes, including one I treasure from my pastry chef Jorant at cooking school in Paris, use almond paste (not marzipan, which contains more sugar). However, these days, I use almond flour because it is easily available in North American supermarkets. (After you open the bag, store almond flour in the refrigerator or freezer.) And as most of the “flour” in this cake is almond flour, the recipe works well with the addition of either wheat flour or gluten-free flour, making it easy to accommodate gluten-free diets.
I like to highlight the almond flavor with a little good-quality almond extract, but you can substitute 1 tablespoon kirsch or 2 teaspoons lemon zest.
Pain de Gênes is the ideal simple cake for midsummer because it showcases the season’s bountiful berries. Fresh berries, raspberry sauce, and a dollop of whipped cream transform a slice of cake into an elegant dessert that is perfect for summer celebrations (although, I also enjoy it throughout the year).
Equipment
9-inch round cake pan
Electric mixer, either a stand mixer or a hand-held one
Ingredients
Softened butter or vegetable oil for coating the cake pan
4 large eggs
1 ½ cups almond flour
½ cup all-purpose wheat or gluten-free flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon fine salt
½ cup (4 ounces/1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup granulated sugar, plus 1 teaspoon, divided
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ teaspoon almond extract
1/3 cup sliced almonds
Confectioners’ sugar for dusting
Raspberry Sauce (recipe follows) for serving
Fresh berries for serving
Whipped cream for serving
Preparation
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Brush a 9-inch round cake pan with the softened butter or vegetable oil. Line the bottom with a round of parchment paper; brush the paper with butter or oil.
2. Place the eggs in a medium bowl and cover them with tepid water to bring them to room temperature. Set aside.
3. Whisk the almond flour, wheat (or gluten-free) flour, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl. Set aside.
4. Place ½ cup butter in a stand mixer, fitter with the whisk attachment. (Alternatively use a hand-held mixer and a large mixing bowl.) Beat the butter at medium speed until creamy. Gradually add 1 cup granulated sugar, and beat at medium-high speed until the mixture is soft and light. One at a time, add the eggs, beating well after each addition. Beat in the vanilla and almond extracts. Sprinkle in half of the almond flour mixture and fold with a flexible spatula until blended. Sprinkle in the remaining almond flour mixture and fold until blended. Scrape the batter into the prepared cake pan. Smooth the top evenly. Sprinkle the sliced almonds over the top. Sprinkle the remaining 1 teaspoon granulated sugar over the almonds.
5. Bake the cake until the top is golden and springs back when touched lightly, 35 to 40 minutes. Let the cake cool in the pan for 5 minutes. Loosen the edges, then invert the cake onto a cooling rack. Peel off the paper, if necessary. Turn the cake over again onto a rack so it can cool completely, sliced almond side up, for at least 1 hour.
6. Serve the cake with Raspberry Sauce, berries, and whipped cream, if desired.
Yield: 8 servings
Raspberry Sauce
Ingredients
1 (10- or 12-ounce) package frozen unsweetened raspberries (about 3 cups), partially thawed or thawed
2-4 tablespoons granulated sugar, depending on your taste
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
Preparation
Puree the raspberries, sugar, lemon juice, and balsamic vinegar in a food processor until smooth. Pass through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl to remove seeds. (The sauce will keep, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.)
Yield: About 1 1/4 cups
Patsy Jamieson