This recipe for split pea soup is much loved and much modified, handed down in my family from Québécois ancestors. When yellow split peas were unavailable, they substituted green, and some cooks chose to use dill or thyme rather than the more traditional savory. The soup is simple, allowing each element to shine. It uses readily available ingredients and cooks mostly unattended. It can be the perfect last act for a holiday ham, or you can make it with pantry and freezer staples on a busy weekend afternoon. I prefer dill and ham with green split peas, thyme and salt pork with yellow peas. Experiment to see what pleases you.
Ingredients
1 pound green or yellow split peas
2-3 ribs celery, with leaves, chopped
2-3 carrots, peeled and chopped
2 scallions, chopped
1 tablespoon butter (optional)
1 teaspoon dried dill or thyme
1 bay leaf
1 ham bone (or salt pork or bacon—see below)
Salt and black pepper to taste (use a light hand, as the meat is salty)
1 cup chopped ham pieces, as available (optional)
Fresh dill sprigs or chopped scallions, for garnish
Preparation
1. Pick over the peas to remove any discolored ones and any debris. Rinse the peas, place them in a soup pot or Dutch oven, cover with 8 cups water, and simmer until they are soft enough to bite through but are still whole, usually 15-20 minutes. The time to softening depends on many things, so start testing after about 15 minutes.
2. The celery, carrots, and scallions can be lightly sautéed in a little butter or added directly to the peas, along with the dill or thyme, bay leaf, and ham bone. Simmer gently, partially covered, for 2-3 hours, adding more water if the soup becomes dry.
3. When all is fully cooked, remove the ham bone, shred any meat attached, and return the meat to the pot. Discard the bone. 4. If you have cooked ham pieces on hand, chop them and add them to the pot. Warm through, and garnish with fresh dill or scallions, if desired. Serve with bread and a salad.
Comment: Freezes well.
Bacon, salt pork or a ham steak can be substituted for the ham bone. To reduce the saltiness of salt pork, drop bite-size pieces into boiling water for a few minutes. Then render the fat from the salt pork (or the bacon) by cooking over low heat until the fat has melted out. Use the fat to lightly sauté the carrots, celery, and scallions or discard it. Add the salt pork or bacon to the soup in place of the ham bone.
Vegetarian (vegan, in fact) soup: Substitute vegetable stock for water and omit the ham. It’s different but still delicious.
Slow cooker soup: Soften the peas as in step 1, then put all the ingredients in a slow cooker and cook on low for 2-4 hours. The time will vary depending on the temperature of your cooker, but it is elastic. Don’t use a pressure cooker, as peas create a foam that can block the steam exit holes and cause an explosion (seriously).
—Kim Trinkaus