Salmon and lentils are a much-loved pairing. The delicate and buttery flavor of salmon goes particularly well with earthy, nutty-tasting lentils. I have often heard this combination described as classic French bistro fare. I haven’t been able to verify this rumor. Nevertheless, it’s a delicious dish that’s easy to make at home.
One distinctly French feature of this recipe is the type of lentils used. French green lentils are smaller and more delicate than common brown lentils. French green lentils are prized for salads and side dishes like this one because they hold their shape well. Common brown lentils, which are fine for soups and purees, tend to break down and get mushy.
Lentils from the Le Puy prefecture, in the Auvergne region in Central France, actually have a protected status. They enjoy the designation appellation d’origine contrôlée—like a wine! The region’s volcanic soil contributes to their special flavor, which is described as peppery, nutty, and earthy.
To test this recipe, I use French green lentils, which I found in the bulk section of City Market. They were not labeled “Le Puy,” but you can find authentic Le Puy lentils online.
As summer draws to a close, we’re all looking for easy and healthful weeknight meals. This simple recipe will fit the bill.
Ingredients
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
¾ cup chopped onion (1 small)
½ cup diced carrot (1 medium)
1 3/4 cups water
1/3 cup French green lentils, picked over and rinsed
1 sprig fresh thyme or ½ teaspoon dried thyme leaves
1 bay leaf
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
1 tablespoon lemon juice, plus lemon wedges for serving
2 teaspoons butter
Freshly ground pepper to taste
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon whole-grain mustard
1 teaspoon maple syrup
8 ounces salmon or steelhead trout fillet, cut into 2 portions, pin bones removed, if desired (see Tip)
Preparation
1. Heat the oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and carrot and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the water, lentils, thyme, bay leaf, and ½ teaspoon salt. Bring to a simmer. Adjust the heat to maintain the simmer, cover the pan, and cook until the lentils are tender and most of the liquid has been absorbed, about 45 minutes. Remove from the heat. If you’re using a thyme sprig, discard it, along with the bay leaf. Drain excess water, if necessary. Stir in the lemon juice and butter. Season with pepper.
2. While the lentils simmer, prepare the salmon: Preheat the oven to 425ºF. Line a small baking pan with parchment paper. (Alternatively, use foil—coat it with vegetable oil or cooking spray.)
3. Mix the Dijon mustard, whole-grain mustard, and maple syrup in a small bowl. Place the fish on the prepared baking pan. Season with the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Brush or spoon the mustard mixture over the salmon.
4. About 20 minutes before the lentils are done, place the fish in the oven and bake until the flesh is opaque and reaches an internal temperature of 125°F, which should take 10 to 20 minutes, depending on the thickness. Serve the fish on a bed of lentils, with lemon wedges. (The skin will slip off easily as you transfer the fish to plates.)
Yield: Makes 2 servings.
Tip: To remove pin bones from a salmon or steelhead trout fillet, place the fish, skin side down, on a cutting board. Run your fingers gently over the surface of the fillet to locate the pin bones. Use a pair of strong tweezers or needle-nose pliers reserved for culinary use to grasp the pin bones, one at a time. Gently pull out each pin bone in the direction it is leaning. Take care not to damage the flesh.
Patsy Jamieson